Development · Apr 2026
記録
Sizing a 21 oz cloth for a sewing line
Needle choice, thread tension and the two seam allowances that cause most heavyweight returns.
True Origin mill · Kojima, Okayama
Needles and thread
Fuji 21 is the heaviest house cloth we stock. On a 21 oz denim most factories need size 18 to 21 needles and a Tex 70–90 core-spun thread for structural seams. Skipped stitches at the waistband are almost always a needle problem, not a machine problem.
Needle choice, thread tension and the two seam allowances that cause most heavyweight returns.
The two seam allowances
Most heavyweight returns trace back to two places: the inseam felled seam and the waistband join. Allow an extra 2 mm at the felled seam so the folder can wrap the layers cleanly, and reduce bulk at the waistband by grading the seam allowances before the band is attached.
Shrinkage and skew
Our Fuji 21 ships raw with a one-wash option. Raw cloth will shrink roughly 8–10% in length, and the twill will torque. Pattern for it, or choose the one-wash finish and take the guesswork out of grading.
More notes
記録
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Sampling
見本
Get the notes by post
Four times a year we send a printed sheet with a swatch stapled to it. Ask for it with your sample request.