True Origin

True Origin

Manufacturing

製造

One mill,
five stations,
no shortcuts

Warping, dyeing, weaving, finishing and inspection all happen under one roof in Kojima. Nothing is subcontracted, so a fault found at inspection is answered by the people who caused it.

Capacity

4,800 m/day

Lead time

5–7 wks

MOQ

300 m

Dyer lifting indigo-soaked yarn above sunken dye vats in the True Origin dye house

製造工程

Okayama · Japan

整経 Hand-drawn warping
◆
染色 Rope dyeing, 6–12 dips
◆
製織 Shuttle weaving
◆
仕上 Sanforizing & skewing
◆
検反 Four-point inspection
◆
整経 Hand-drawn warping
◆
染色 Rope dyeing, 6–12 dips
◆
製織 Shuttle weaving
◆
仕上 Sanforizing & skewing
◆
検反 Four-point inspection
◆

The Line

流れ

How a metre gets made

Five stations, in order. Each one is a place where the cloth can be ruined, and each one is staffed by someone who has worked it for more than a decade.
Rows of shuttle looms weaving indigo denim in a long daylight weaving hall
01

Warping

整経

4,200 ends

Ends are drawn by hand onto the beam. A mis-drawn end shows as a line down forty metres of cloth, so nothing here is rushed.
02

Rope Dyeing

染色

6–12 dips

Yarn is twisted into rope and passed through indigo baths. Dip count sets the depth of shade; the white core is never touched.
03

Weaving

製織

60 picks / min

Twenty-two Toyoda shuttle looms, 30 inches wide, monitored by two weavers per shift who listen for a dropped pick before they see it.
04

Finishing

仕上

3 routes

Sanforized, skewed or left loomstate. Singeing and mercerising available for the black programme.
05

Inspection

検反

4-point system

Every metre crosses a daylight frame. Rolls above 20 points per 100 square yards are broken down and re-graded.

Working with us

納期

Predictable dates, written down

Development samples in ten working days. Bulk in five to seven weeks from beam approval. Shade continuity held within a quarter grade across a season.

10 days

Development sample turnaround

5–7 wks

Bulk production lead time

±0.25

Shade grade tolerance, season to season

Sampling

見本

Ask for the cloth, not the catalogue

Tell us the weight, the hand and the wash you are chasing. We cut swatches from live production and post them within five working days.