Warping, dyeing, weaving, finishing and inspection all happen under one roof in Kojima. Nothing is subcontracted, so a fault found at inspection is answered by the people who caused it.
Capacity
4,800 m/day
Lead time
5–7 wks
MOQ
300 m
製造工程
Okayama · Japan
整経 Hand-drawn warping
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染色 Rope dyeing, 6–12 dips
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製織 Shuttle weaving
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仕上 Sanforizing & skewing
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検反 Four-point inspection
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整経 Hand-drawn warping
◆
染色 Rope dyeing, 6–12 dips
◆
製織 Shuttle weaving
◆
仕上 Sanforizing & skewing
◆
検反 Four-point inspection
◆
The Line
流れ
How a metre gets made
Five stations, in order. Each one is a place where the cloth can be ruined, and each one is staffed by someone who has worked it for more than a decade.
01
Warping
整経
4,200 ends
Ends are drawn by hand onto the beam. A mis-drawn end shows as a line down forty metres of cloth, so nothing here is rushed.
02
Rope Dyeing
染色
6–12 dips
Yarn is twisted into rope and passed through indigo baths. Dip count sets the depth of shade; the white core is never touched.
03
Weaving
製織
60 picks / min
Twenty-two Toyoda shuttle looms, 30 inches wide, monitored by two weavers per shift who listen for a dropped pick before they see it.
04
Finishing
仕上
3 routes
Sanforized, skewed or left loomstate. Singeing and mercerising available for the black programme.
05
Inspection
検反
4-point system
Every metre crosses a daylight frame. Rolls above 20 points per 100 square yards are broken down and re-graded.
Working with us
納期
Predictable dates, written down
Development samples in ten working days. Bulk in five to seven weeks from beam approval. Shade continuity held within a quarter grade across a season.
10 days
Development sample turnaround
5–7 wks
Bulk production lead time
±0.25
Shade grade tolerance, season to season
Sampling
見本
Ask for the cloth, not the catalogue
Tell us the weight, the hand and the wash you are chasing. We cut swatches from live production and post them within five working days.